RELAX: It's Byron Bay

After 3 weeks of travel, all in urban centers, Byron Bay was a pretty drastic change.

Byron Bay is a very small town about 1.5 hours drive south of Brisbane on the "Gold Coast" of Australia, population: 5,609. Add tourists, and the number probably doubles. Okay okay, maybe triples. It is a hugely popular tourist destination, particularly amongst backpackers, probably because it has great beaches, surfing, snorkling and diving, and a disproportionately high number of residents who live 'alternative lifestyles'. Basically, it's a really relaxed and laid back place that transforms into sheer backpacker chaos at night.

My first few days there, I went around the main strip a bunch of times, did some shopping, went to the beach, enjoyed the pool and facilities at the Hostel, went out for dinner, for drinks, for dancing. Then I started to get bored. I wondered if a week was too much for Byron, and I started to feel listless. Then miraculously another few days later, my body and mind must have slowed down to the Byron pace (was it the yoga class I did?) and I didn't feel bored, I just felt happy. I had learned to ride the Byron Wave, go with the flow, enjoy the sun and waves, and not really plan anything. A great feeling! Mind you, it explains why so many people get to Byron, and then don't get any further....

My Hostel, the Arts Factory Lodge, is what a hippy commune would look like if it were conceived of as a business. They clearly target an 'alternative' clientele, with accommodation choices that include a 10 person teepee, a double decker bus, lagoon-side-'cabins', and a camping area where you can pitch your tent. The Buddah Bar offers music/drinks/food every night, and the on-site movie theatre has blacklights and couches instead of seats. Every morning the volleyball court becomes a Staff-Poi lesson area, and you can also take didgeridoo lessons. At all times, the parking lot is FILLED with camper-vans. This place is quintessential Byron Bay, and once you've slowed down enough to enjoy it, it's a blast.

But, Byron is a backpacker haven, which means it really caters to backpackers and tourists. The main strip, which you can walk the length of in about 10 minutes, has a disproportionate number of travel shops (each with someone outside trying to lull you in with offers of free internet.) There are surf shops where tourists can buy their first pair of boarding shorts, clothing stores selling a huge variety of batik dresses and thai-fisherman-pants, pharmacies for a cheap bottle of water, pie shops for a midday or late night snack, and many bars and clubs.

Curious thing about the nightlife: at midnight most of the bars basically close, and your choice of venue is reduced to three places that are open till 3. In order from most to least classy: LaLaLand, Coocamungas, and Cheeky Monkeys, the last of the three being renowned for the weekly wet tshirt contest, and the 'dancing on the tables' (more like table-shaped steel stages) that takes place within. Sigh. Really cheesy, but hey - its good for a fun time. Except, the bouncers are power-tripping assholes. But hey, what else is new?

Finally, I've officially started abandoning some of my belongings. Meh, that top wasn't very flattering anyways.


Discoveries...

- do YOU know what an esky is?

- Sea kayaking is a blast, and also a dangerous weapon when 'catching a wave'.

- Surfing is SO MUCH FUN! And it's not nearly as hard to stand up on the board as you think it is. Especially with the giant foam boards you learn on.

- Food may be expensive, but the cost of organic food is almost prohibitive!

- You can sing any song to a standard reggae tune.

- Goannas are pretty big, and kinda scary, but basically harmless.

- Night swimming is lovely. But dangerous, apparently. Don't try it at home, kids.

- "Into the wild" is a great movie, and an ever better one if you are traveling or are looking for inspiration to travel.

- Too many sleepless nights WILL catch up with you eventually. *cough cough HACK*

- I can talk to other Canadians more easily than to people from other places in the world. I guess we really do have some common traits...